Road Trip USA 2024 Southwest Part 2

Cortez – Moab / Arches NP

Continuation of the 1st part

Part 2 of the road trip
We only want to go shopping because we will be in Utah for 6 nights afterwards. Getting alcoholic drinks there is a bit of a hassle. Claudia is slightly irritated when she realises that you are allowed to carry guns openly in Colorado and we really do see smaller and larger ones on various belts.

We continue northwards through an agricultural landscape until the 491 meets the 191 at Monticello, Utah. Turn right and we are on familiar paths. A mandatory stop at Wilson Arch follows and shortly afterwards we turn into the car park of the Scenic View and Inn in Moab.

Arches NP

The Arches NP requires a timed entry ticket until 16:00. We roll into the visitor center parking lot at 4 pm sharp.
We had visited Arches NP last year, but this time we decided to visit different Arches.
The first one is Double Arch, huge and impressive. Unfortunately, there are too many people around to take good photos.

Today we want to drive all the way to the end of the road to Devils Garden. We’re going on a short hike to the Landscape Arch Trail Viewpoint, and I’m excited to hear all the different languages being spoken. Italian and German are the most common, and I’m looking forward to the cultural exchange! Did you know, that Italians never ever stop talking? No matter how breathtaking the landscape is, there will be an endless and loud chatter.

For the golden hour, we’re kicking things off at Fiery Furnace and then heading to Salt Valley Overlook. This time around, we’re skipping Balanced Rock and other similar spots.

The lights are on in Moab when we leave the park. This gives the place its remarkable charm.

Road Trip, Day 4

Canyonlands National Park is an absolute gem! A part of this incredible park is easily accessible from Moab, making it super convenient. Today, we’re going to explore the awe-inspiring Island in the Sky. The other sections, The Needles and The Maze, are a bit more of a journey, but that just adds to the adventure! The Maze in particular is an epic 4Wheel adventure, away from civilization.Before we reach Island in the Sky, we’ll take a left turn to visit the stunning Dead Horse Point State Park. As it’s a Utah State Park, there’s an extra fee, but it’s absolutely worth it. We set off super early and enjoy the breathtaking views of the Colorado and the Potash Fields in the fresh, clear air.

We’re off to the Canyonlands Visitor Center, where we’ll meet the Italians from Arches. They’re here today. Stamps! at the visitor center, that means our postcards are almost on their way.Next stop, Shafer Trail Viewpoint.The trail is a dirt road that leads down to the Colorado, but we’re not driving down it.The view from the top is impressive enough!This trail was built to move cattle from the summer pastures to the winter pastures and vice versa. It’s incredible to think that the development of this trail, which now offers convenient access to the area, was driven by the uranium mining that took place here. This chapter in the trail’s history has now come to a close, as the area has been transformed into a vibrant park, ready to be explored by all!

Next up, we’re stopping at one of the most famous arches around! Chances are, you’ve probably seen a photo of Mesa Arch before, but seeing it in person is something else! I had initially planned to take this shot at sunrise, but I decided to switch things up and go for it at a different time. We got our shots, and thanks to the awesome visitors who were super cool about it, we even got to snap some pics without people around.

Grandview Point, the most spectacular view, is closed due to construction work, but that just means more time to enjoy the Orange Cliffs!
On the way back, we turn left and drive to the trailhead of Upheaval Dome. It’s hot, but we make it to the viewpoint, and it’s totally worth the effort!
Canyonlands in August is definitely hot as hell, but we’ve had enough for today, and we’re excited to go back and explore more next time!

On the way back, we turn right before Moab and follow the scenic Potash Road to Thelma and Louise Point. This road winds along the beautiful course of the Colorado River on the right bank. Before the Potash Fields, the road becomes a bit rough, so we decide to turn back, but on the way home, we’re thrilled to discover more petroglyphs carved into the sandstone rocks.

I’m thrilled to be driving back into Arches in the evening. Yesterday, we discovered a rock right next to the road, and it gave us the perfect opportunity to take an amazing photo of Balanced Rock in the last light. I couldn’t pass up this incredible opportunity, and it marks the end of the Arches and Moab chapter of this trip.

Road Trip, Day 5

Moab – Torrey

Today we want to drive from Moab to Torrey in Utah. The shortest route would be via Interstate 70, but for us it’s back onto the 191 heading south to Blanding.
We travelled this road until after Blanding 2023.
In Monticello, we stock up on supplies in a small supermarket and rop off the gas tank. From Blanding on the 95 to Hanksville there is no gas station and that is 121 mls.

Just like last year, we stop at Combs Ridge. The view and the silence are not to be missed.

Passing the Natural Bridges National Monument, we arrive at the Colorado River at the northern end of Lake Powell near Hite, surrounded by breathtaking scenery. The river is spanned by a steel bridge, and the next crossing downstream is the impressive Glen Canyon Dam in Page, upstream in Moab. It’s important to keep these dimensions in mind when comparing them to Europe.
Just after the bridge, you’ll find a viewpoint that offers stunning views of both the Colorado River and the bridge.

After just an hour, we arrive in Hanksville, a typical American town built at a major crossroads. Here, we find everything we could possibly need: hotels, motels, gas stations, burger joints, garages, and boat builders. The latter are here because boating on the Colorado is a popular leisure activity.We fill up again, have a coffee, and follow the Fremont River and the 24 westwards. The landscape, reminiscent of a lunar landscape, is known as badlands in the USA.As we continue, the immediate vicinity of the river becomes dedicated to agriculture.

The term “homestead” keeps coming up, and it’s fascinating to learn about the history behind it. The Homestead Act of 1862 offered settlers the opportunity to claim and farm up to 65 hectares of land, provided they did so for five years. After five years, the land became his! This incredible law was repealed in 1976, paving the way for new opportunities. Similar laws existed in Europe, including in Germany after World War I, showing the widespread impact of this innovative idea.

The landscape and the colors of the rocks are constantly changing, which is such a treat for the eyes! Then, we reach the entrance to Capitol Reef National Park.
Our first stop is Fruita, where Mormon settlers have established an orchard. All fruit and apples picked and eaten in the orchard are “free of charge,” which is incredible! If you want to take something with you, there is a scale and cash box at the exit, and it’s only $2 per pound.

A little further on there are petroglyphs again. The visitor center is reached shortly afterwards. Here we are unlucky and one of the main attractions, the Scenic Drive, is closed.

A ranger at the visitor center advises us against the Cathedral Valley Loop Tour planned for the next day. The ford through the Fremont River is not safe to cross because of all the rain. What’s more, rain is forecast again for the next day from late morning. With a heavy heart, we reluctantly decide to change our plans.

Next stop is the hotel
Broken Spur Inn and Steakhouse.

In the evening, we have an invigorating short drive to Panorama Point and the parking lot for the Gooseneck Overlook and Sunset Point. We stay at Sunset Point until the sun has set deep behind the rocks, and we are rewarded with incomparable pictures. An Icelandic pensioner happens to have the same camera, and I get the opportunity to explain it to him. What a crazy world!

Road Trip, Day 6

The morning starts with a thunderstorm and confirms yesterday’s decision to forgo the 65 mls loop tour.

No problem, right at the hotel the 12 goes south along the Fisher Mountains. We drive through heavy rain to Boulder and then turn left onto the Burr Trail.
The color of the rocks looks familiar. That’s right, we’re in Staircase Escalante. This tour is highly recommended. The road is paved all the way to the end of Long Canyon. By now the sun is shining again and temperatures are rising rapidly.

The Singing Canyon on the left is definitely not to be missed. The echo is impressive and … we are alone.
The sunlight that falls on the south-facing rocks is reflected onto the opposite side and makes them glow a deep red.

After a few miles, you reach an overlook with a formidable view of Capitol Reef NP. The more adventurous can now continue through the wide section of switchbacks until the Burr Trail reaches the Notom-Bullfrog Road. Heading north, you can get back to 24 through the Waterpocket Fold or follow the Burr Trail to Lake Powell. Both are things we only recommend for experienced tourists. All roads are unpaved, no cell phone reception, help only after days.

We meet up again with our Icelander from yesterday.
As dark clouds are gathering again from the south, we make our way back. Returned to Torrey, we pop into the local corner supermarket. There is also a weekly market in this little town. The locals there fulfill all the usual clichés.

Anyway, the thunderstorm has reached Torrey. The rain forecast shows that it will last for hours, so we use the time to take a long nap.
In the past few days we have ridden over 1500 mls or 2500 km. Half a day’s rest is more than welcome, a fact that we will take into account in future plans.
The photographic highlight of the day comes when the thunderstorm moves away. Shortly before sunset, the sun slipped below the edge of the clouds in the west and created the most brilliant rainbow we have ever seen.

We spend the evening in front of the TV watching a long documentary about the 1968 election, between Nixon/Humphrey/Wallace; the latter a full-on Nazi, about Gen. Westmoreland, the battles for Ke San, Hue and Apollo 8 reaching the orbit of the moon.

Road Trip, Day 7

Torrey – Kanab

The new day starts with a great sunrise. After a quick breakfast, we are back on the 12 heading south. After Boulder, the road becomes adventurously narrow in places. I wouldn’t want to have to drive here in winter.

We make our obligatory stop at the Head of the Rocks. We were last here in 2022, looking out over the yellowish-white sandstones of the Navajo formation.

We get a coffee at Utah Canyons and Outdoor in Escalante, which we know is really good.

We continue on the 12, along the Escalante River, Henrieville, Tropic until we reach the turn-off to Bryce Canyon. Of course we drive into the park. After the long visit in 2022, we know where we’re going and what we want to see in a hurry.

We are driven away by the next thunderstorm, rain and not very summery temperatures. Lightning on the rim walk of Bryce Canyon is not funny.
On the way, we stop at the Red Rocks and the Sevier River. Unfortunately, I can’t find a suitable spot for a nice panorama.

Shortly after 3 p.m. we roll into the yard at Kanab Suites. Unfortunately Honey’s Market is closed for shopping today, tomorrow.
We have bolognese and later fantastic light for an excellent photo walk through Kanab.

Road Trip, DAy 8

Grand Canyon North Rim

Today we head for the North Rim, first stop will be Point Imperial, 81 mls or 2.5 hours. This is the reason why we start early again.
The Kaibab Plateau lies ahead of us. We stop on the ascent at Le Fevre Overlook. From there, the view extends north to the Vermillion Cliffs, Staircase Escalante and, far in the background, Bryce Canyon. At Jacob Lake, turn south onto the 67.

The road climbs steadily and passes an area that was destroyed by a major fire in 2011. It is amazing to see how far nature has regenerated and how the plants and animals have adapted to the changed environment. At some point it will burn again and the cycle will begin anew.

After passing enchanting meadows and forests, we drive through the park entrance and later turn left to Point Imperial, the highest point in the park. Here, at the beginning, the Grand Canyon has a north-south orientation. If only we could remember the names of all the rock formations.

The following stops on the North Rim are usually Roosevelt Point Overlook, Angels Windows before driving to Bright Angel Point and the lodge. There are significantly more people here; according to the park service, there are 10 times more people on the opposite South Rim in summer. The North Rim section closes in October. After the first snowfall, the access road is also closed. It’s hard to imagine that it will be quiet here in 8 weeks.
If you know where to look, you can spot the striking Dessert View Tower on the South Rim. Navajo Mountain can be glimpsed to the northeast.

This day is also hot and so we don’t stay until sunset, preferring instead to drive back to Kanab.

Road Trip, Day 9
Kanab – San Diego

Today, 526 mls are on the program.
The air is cool and clear. Bye bye Kanab, see you next time.
We discuss North Rim vs South Rim and come to the unanimous conclusion that the South Rim is the more beautiful part of the park, apart from the fact that we have never ventured as far as the Toroweap Overlook.
One last look at the rolling grasslands, the Vermillion Cliffs and the Kaibab Plateau and then we turn onto I-15 at St. George in the direction of Las Vegas.
In Vegas we fill up with gas and coffee and continue through the desert, Primm, Baker, Barstow.
After Barstow, from Victorville onwards, the traffic gets heavier. San Bernadino, Riverside, Temecula etc.
We are delighted to have finally arrived in San Diego. The sun is shining, it’s not hot and a thunderstorm is breaking out over the mountains.
The lost iPad is in the room and is not even fully discharged thanks to flight mode.

The evening treats us to a glorious California-style sunset.
Tomorrow we swap our Chevy Traverse for another car. The indicator light for the oil change has been on since Torrey, i.e. more than 1000 mls.

Road Trip, Days 10 – 12

Over the next few days, we spend time in San Diego and the surrounding area. There’s not much to report on this and it no longer has anything to do with a road trip.

We covered a whopping 2,500 miles (4,000 km) on our epic journey, and people are always amazed when they hear about it. Some might not expect the fun and relaxation that come with such distances, but we know it all too well.If you’re considering taking on a road trip like this, it’s important to love driving. For us, exploring the beauty of the southwest on the open road is pure bliss. There are so many things to discover; we’ll never see it all!

We do all the planning from home: route, destinations, hotels, rental car, and flights.
We get our ideas for photographic destinations from books, other blogs, and our own wishes.
We’re confident and outgoing, and we’re fluent in English.
Almost all Americans, apart from the natives, are immigrants, so you’re guaranteed to not understand Navajo!

Which cameras did we use for the pictures?
Leica Q (Typ 116), M10 with various lenses, Nikon D850 with 24-70mm